Aeroccino Motor Replaced

Months ago, I got this broken Aeroccino milk frother for free. This week I fiddled with it for a few hours, and got it to work:

… and this is how you get it apart. First carefully pull out the button on the front:

Removing the front button

And then remove the rubber plugs to get to the screws at the bottom.

Remove rubber plugs to get to the screws

You’re on your own from here. Be careful not to break any wires when you pull it apart, and take pictures along the way so you know how to put it back together.


48 Responses to Aeroccino Motor Replaced

  1. Tom says:


    Ik zit hier ook met een kapotte Aeroccino, ik heb alleen geen idee hoe ik hem open kan maken zonder schade aan te richten. Kun je me vertellen hoe jij dat gedaan hebt?

    Ik ben te bereiken via mijn email πŸ™‚



  2. Maxwell says:

    Thank you for your video!! πŸ˜€

    I have the same problem, and when I bring to the shop request for repair, the sales keep suggest me buy a new one (HKD960/~USD123) is cheaper then repair….
    Lucky I have found your video, inspire by you, I go to buy a new motor which is only HKD25/USD3…. and now, I am enjoying my coffee, typing this message B-)

    Big Big thanks to your video πŸ™‚

    ps. may I provide the model number of the motor? so that if anyone found your video, they know what motor they should buy. Is a “RF-500TB-12560” motor.. cheers πŸ™‚

  3. Sem Liew says:

    I have opened the compartment now but I am not sure how to find what’s going wrong. Please help and advise.

  4. Yan says:

    Thank you for the information!
    How do you remove the base cover to expose the bottom as in your picture 2?
    Without removing the black base cover I cannot get to the rubber plugs to get to the screws!
    Can you provide detail step here? I don’t want to break it prior to repair it?


    • rolfje says:

      The second picture has the base cover still on. The rubber plugs are in the base cover. Pick the aeroccino up, and look for the rubber plugs in the base. Take those out, then take the screws out, and then take the base cover off (carefull, it has wires attached to it).

  5. Kaeelem says:

    Je wil niet weten wat ik allemaal geprobeerd heb: draaien, wrikken, iets er tussen frotten om een hefboom te creΓ«ren… Ik sta nu op het punt om hem met grof geweld te lijf te gaan: kapot is ‘ie toch al πŸ˜‰
    Maar thanks voor je reactie!

  6. v bullard says:

    what people want to know is how to remove bottom on plus model, which is different construction than original aerocinna. looks like it screws off or has a specialty tool to release it.

    • rolfje says:

      Sorry I can only show it for this model, I don’t have the new one. If you find a link to instructions for repairing a new one please post it here so people can find it. Thanks!

      • v bullard says:

        I will post. mine probably has a blown thermal resistor. bottom is a mystery as to how it is removed.

      • Nille says:

        Bottom part is not screwed in it’s clipsed straight in !

        I’ve just crack open the plus model as the motor is broken. The bottom part use one-time clips, so when you open it the clips would break and to put it together you need to glue it with epoxy or silicone, There are 3 square holes, you can use a homemade hock and pull straight the bottom part out, you need to pull very hard, and other option which I’ve used, I drill 2x 6 mm holes and screw in 6mm bolts then fix the bottom part in a vice at the bolt head, twist a bit and pull hard, the clips would break and the bottom part come lose, replace the motor (same RF-500TB-12560 motor 7 volt as the old model) and test and glue it togther. I have pictures but don’t know if I can post them here…

      • rolfje says:

        Awesome reply, thanks for sharing that. If you can put the images online somewhere you can create links to them, I think that is allowed within comments.

      • Nille says:

        Hi Rolfje, I’ve uploaded a video on my repair, you are welcome to link to it:

      • rolfje says:

        Your video shows up nicely in the comment. Thanks for sharing!

  7. Hello,

    Thanks for your post. To replace the motor I have to remove motor from the plastic housing… any ideas how to do this? The top bit is magnets and underneath is the motor- is there a way to remove the clear plastic casing?

    • rolfje says:

      To remove the plastic housing, you need to carefully pull the magnet holder from the axle of the motor. After that, the plastic housing can be removed from the motor.

      • freddie says:

        Hi, Thanks for the guide but iMHO removing the plastic housing is the hardest part. The magnet holder is glued on the axle of the motor. any ideas to do this without damaging the plastic parts ?

      • rolfje says:

        Removing the magnet from the axle is hard, yes, but in my case it was not glued. It took some effort to pull the magnet from the axle, don’t use glue when you put it back on again. I think I pried a fork behind the magnet to be able to pull it from the axle. Try to get as much grip on the plastic as possible without pressure (don’t use pliers to squeeze).

  8. gear says:

    I was able to remove the base easily by inserting a medium sized philips screwdriver in the square hole at a horizontal angle, then leverage against the metal rim. It popped out the base without damaging the plastic clips, or the base.

  9. hee rolf heel erg bedankt voor deze post! Ik heb eea uit elkaar gehaald en getest, en de elektromotor is gewoon goed en de zekering ook.
    de aeroccino is onder water geweest, en daarna gestopt met werken. Ik hoor het relais wel klikken als ik hem aanzet, maar het lampje gaat niet branden, de motor niet draaien en hij wordt niet warm.

    Enig idee wat het dan wel kan zijn?

    • rolfje says:

      Oei onder water. Geen goed nieuws. Als je geluk hebt zijn het alleen de contacten. Met een beetje spiritus de drie tin-kleurige vlakken van het verwarmingselement goed schoonpoetsen, en de drie koperen contacten aan de printplaat goed schoonmaken. Het verwarmingselement doet ook dienst als trafo, dus als de aeroccino niet warm wordt, en de motor gaat ook niet lopen, dan is er iets met de stroomvoorziening naar het verwarmingselement loos. Ik hoop niet dat er iets op de print stuk is, want dan kan ik je niet goed verder helpen.

  10. Ron bakker says:

    Beste allemaal,
    Het motortje werkt maar als het het geheel open hebt dan zijn er twee magnetische blokjes van ongeveer 0,5 x 0,5 mm.
    Weet iemand waar deze horen?

    Iemand nog een tip, als het motortje draait en het wordt warm maar het melkkloppertje draait niet??

    Ik hoor het graag.


  11. Matt says:

    My motor would only turn intermittently so I pulled the motor apart too, cleaned the brushes (the fine metal fingers that connect with the motor armature inside) with a nail file and some methylated spirits on a piece of cardboard. Worked a treat, back in business!

  12. Charlotte says:

    Ik heb via marktplaats een citiz & milk gekocht en nu doet de melkopchuimer het niet… De melk wordt wel warm maar hij schuimt niet op. Iemand enig idee wat hier aan de hand kan zijn?

    • rolfje says:

      Het kan zijn dat het asje en/of het kloppertje niet goed schoon zijn, en daardoor te stroef om door het magneetje meegenomen te worden. Dat kun je snel controleren en verhelpen door het even met een sopje schoon te maken. De andere verklaring is dat het motortje stuk is, zoals bij de Aeroccino in deze blog. Openen van de nieuwe modellen gaat iets lastiger, maar eenmaal open zou de reparatie nagenoeg hetzelfde moeten zijn. Veel knutselplezier!

  13. Arjen says:

    Dank voor alle tips. Heeft geholpen om mijn versie 2 (met clips) open te krijgen. Voornamelijk de tip om de behuizing op te warmen en dan deze open te wrikken.
    Nog een tip: indien je een Aeroccino hebt waarvan het ledje regelmatig ROOD gaat knipperen: controlleer de soldeerverbinding op het verwarmingselement (blauwe printplaat) Deze was bij mij visueel goed, maar bij nameten defect, waarschijnlijk door oververhitting. Smeltzekering was nog ok. Na hernieuwd solderen werkt de Aerocinno weer naar behoren.

    [edit by rolfje:] Translation for our our English speaking target audience: “Thanks for the tips. It helped getting my version 2 (with clips) open. Particularly the tip to heat up the housing and pry it open.
    Additional tip: When you have an Aeroccino of which the led blinks RED regularly: check the soldering on the heater element (the blue circuit board). This connection looked okay, but measurements proved it was defective, probably due to overheating. The fuse was still ok. After re-soldering the connection the Aeroccino works as it should.”

  14. rolfje says:

    I’m not consistent either, but please try to keep the comments in English so we reach as many Aeroccino’s out there guys, thanks! πŸ™‚

  15. Philipp says:

    Hello fellow aeroccino guys! πŸ™‚

    I am just trying to repair an aeroccino with the model number 3193, which looks like this .
    I have managed to open it but am now struggling to find the or A thermal fuse!
    Does anybody know where exactly it is and can show me in a picture in order to check it? That would be great!

    It is not heating up due to a damaged heating system and therefore I would like to check the fuse but am too stupid to find it 😦 It surely is not attached to any red wire…

    THANK you so much in advance,


  16. Philipp says:

    Okay, here we go πŸ™‚
    I have uploaded some pictures of my aeroccino insides.

    As Arjen already mentioned, there is something wrong with the heating pcb. I tried to get a detailed picture, it is a bit blurry though. Sorry for that.

    Do you know what this weird little part is? I found another picture on the web and it actually should look like this:
    (Taken from this blog: )

    There the guy talks about a resistance of the heating element of 104 Ohm. Mine has infinite resistance (I checked with a multimeter) i.e. it is interrupted, most likely at the broken solder part?

    So my questions: Does anybody know how this can be fixed, in a way that is safe and doesn’t cause the thing to catch on fire in the future? πŸ™‚

    And is this little part on the PCB the “fuse” of the heating system??

    Thank you very much guys! πŸ™‚

    • Arjen says:

      Hi Phil,

      Definitely a different heating element than mine (older type) Mine has a soldering spot on its PCB, that was burned.
      When your has infinite resistance than surely thats you problem. Unfortunately the small part you mention is not on my heating PCB, and also the picture is not as sharp so I can see what it is. Try to measure the heating element with a multimeter and a sharp needle, so you can find out where it is broken, and try to solder that part by scrapping of the top layer.
      By the way, does or did… your Aeroccino work with Cold selected? ie. holding down the button longer and wait for Blue light?

      Good luck,


      • Philipp says:

        Hmmm. Thanks! I will try and somehow bridge the broken part, but am not sure if soldering will work as the thing heats up and so the solder might become liquid again…

        Maybe it is broken for real, beyond repair.

        Yes the cold mode does work including the blue light. Also the motor spins when the heat mode is activated but obviously it doesn’t heat up.

      • Arjen says:

        Hi Phil,

        Soldering melts at approx. 185 degrees, so that should not be a problem.
        Mine has a solderjoint from factory that ‘acts as’ a ‘thermal’ fuse, so it melts only when it becomes TOO hot. Heater does not look burned on your picture, so repair should be possible.

        Good luck, and let us know if your coffee has Hot milk again πŸ™‚


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