Zūmo Mount for Triumph Speed Triple

The RAM mount coming with the Garmin zūmo’s are fine, but I wanted something more elegant to go with my Triumph Speed Triple. This article contains a detailed description of building your own mount for the Garmin zūmo 660. I mounted the zūmo on my Speed Triple, but the mount is universal enough to be center-mounted on any bike which has riser-mounted handlebars.

No guarantees ofcourse, you’re on your own from here. Bring your tools and read on.

WARNING: When I tried to cut one of these rubbers in half, the bottom disk came loose. It was not as securely glued to the rubber as the top disk. When pulling the zūmo on the mount it does not come off, but if you want to be sure order the Garmin 550 mount rubbers (described in article below).

Stuff you need to buy:

  • A scythe “Harddisk Stabilizer II”. For more info, see www.scythe.co.jp. I got mine at www.ikbenstil.nl. Buy two of these if you can spare the money, because you’re likely to screw one up. Please note that you can also order ready-made M4 dampers at Waypoint, but I did not know that at the time, and they are not listed on their shop page.
  • a sheet of rubber or an old tyre inner tubing
  • A (stainless steel) brace which can fit the handle bars and the rubber at the thickest part. The standard Garmin mount brace is not long enough, I found a perfectly fitting brace sold as some drywall pipe mount (wandputting).
  • two stainless steel self-locking nuts fitting the brace, in my case M6.
  • 10×10 aluminum U profile rod, about 50mm length for the counter bracket on the brace
  • eight stainless steel M4x15 bolts, with at least four washers.
  • 2mm thick aluminum sheet, at least 53x80mm
  • at least 30x30mm wood beam, of about 1 meter in length
  • wood screws (trust me on these last two items)
  • small bottle of mild threadlock (I used loctite 243)
  • some WD40 (you should have that in your shop, next to the duct tape)

Tools you need to have:

  • sharp (new) 3.2mm HSS drill bit and preferably a bench-press drill
  • standard set of steel drill bits (1mm to 10mm, whatever you have handy)
  • sharp 15mm wood drill but (this needs to be exact)
  • M4 inner thread cutter
  • firmly attached bench vise
  • a set of metal files
  • a hacksaw
  • a wood saw
  • a freezer (or rent a small space in that for 24 hours 🙂
  • an old blanket or towel

Things you need to do:

The rubber dampers in the harddisk stabilizer have the wrong hole in one end, and a piece of thread in the other. To be able to cut new M4 thread, we need to drill through the steel and the rubber. Drilling rubber is usually a problem, but not if we do some careful preparations.

Take the 30×30 wood beam, and cut off four pieces of about 7 to 10 cm length. Drill a 15mm hole in each of them. Then, saw it in half with the wood saw. Be carefull to mark the wood pieces, as they need to fit perfectly back together later on. Drill two small holes in one half of the four clamps, so you can screw it back together perfectly, as if it was 1 piece.

Take the rubber dampers from the scythe harddisk stabilizer, put them in the 15mm holes and screw the clamps back together. With the hacksaw, saw off the thread coming out of one end of the damper, and file it so that the metal is perfectly flat.

Check that the rubber dampers fit the wooden clamps, screw them together pretty tight, and put the four (or eight) assemblies in the freezer for at least 24 hours.

To protect the paint on your gastank, put an old blanket or towel on it. This will keep you from scratching the tank in the next steps. Extra advantage is that you can put small nuts and washers on your tank without them rolling away.

While waiting for the rubbers to cool off, you can prepare the aluminum parts. Take the 10×10 aluminum frame, and drill two holes in it so that the M6 brace fits through it. Mark the perfect middle between the two holes, and use a half-round steel file to file it down so that it fits the handlebars perfectly.

Be careful to file perpendicular to the aluminum, and re-check your work often. The U profile sits flush against the handlebars, while being perpendicular to them when looking from the riders position. Don’t file too deep, allow for some room between the aluminum plate and the handlebars, so that the screw heads don’t touch the bars.

Next, take the aluminum sheet and make it look like the drawing I made here (this is the shortest sentence in this post, resulting in the most work for the reader).

Prepare the benchpress drill by mounting the 3.2mm drill bit. After the rubber dampers in the wood clamps have been in the freezer, take one out and take it to the workshop as fast as you can, make sure to keep it cold.

On the flat side of the rubber damper (the side where you filed off the thread), drill a hole through the steel, but try not to drill into the rubber too much.

Flip the clamp over, and drill through the original threaded hole, all the way through the rubber. If your benchpress drill is straight, you should come out through the hole you just drilled in the in the other steel plate.

Repeat the whole process for each damper. Minimize the time they are out of the freezer. After you’ve drilled all dampers, they can warm up again by leaving them in the workshop.

Take the dampers out of the wooden clamps. You don’t need the clamps anymore, give them to a friend so he can make this cool mount, too.

Put one of the rubber dampers in the bench vise and use a small drop of WD40 and the M4 thread cutter to cut thread into the 3.2mm holes. Do this on both sides, make sure that you break the cuttings (one turn forward, then 2/3 back, repeat). Repeat this for all dampers.

Mount up!
You should now have all pieces to mount. Test the fitting of the mount before you use threadlock (loctite) on any of the parts. Because of the construction, there is an order in which you need to assemble the parts, let me take you through it:

Mount the rubbers on the zūmo mount, but do not fasten the screws. Attach the aluminum plate to the other side, also not fastening the screws.

Now, tighten the screws on the zumo mount first, then tighten the screws on the aluminim plate. This will make sure that the dampers will align perfectly later on. Take one screw out of the aluminum plate, apply threadlock and a washer, and re-tighten it. Repeat for the other three screws in the aluminum plate.

After you’ve done all four screws attaching the dampers to the aluminum plate, take the Garmin zūmo mount off. You should now have an aluminum plate with four dampers firmly attached to it.

Cut the rubber slab to the correct width and length so that it protects your handlebars from scratches by the mount. Use the brace, the aluminum U profile, two washers and two self-locking nuts to attach the aluminum plate to the handlebars.

When compfortable with the position, tighten the bolts and attach the zūmo mount to the rubber dampers, using threadlock. Everything should match up perfectly, don’t force anything.

And there you have it, all done! More pictures of the whole process are available here.

Please note: At the time of writing I did not thouroghly test the durability and strength of this mount and it’s dampers. Mounting the zūmo like this is totally at your own risk, so please be careful. If you’re not sure about the dampers, buy ready-made ones fit for this purpose. Your GPS supplier should be able to get a hold of a set.


10 Responses to Zūmo Mount for Triumph Speed Triple

  1. Robert says:

    Nice minimalistic & seemingly sturdy mount. Much lower profile than the RAMmount indeed. Congrats! Have you posted your mod on: http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/ ?
    If I hadn’t installed a Zumo500dlx on my Speedy already, I would’ve tried your mount for sure.

    Question: which Bluetooth headset do you use for hearing Zumo’s audiocues? Since I replaced my noisy Nolan N-Com N103 for a Schuberth S1Pro, I haven’t found a working BT replacement…

  2. rolfje says:

    I’m using a set of Sennheiser in-ear headphones, connected to the 3,5mm jack underneath the seat. Bluetooth needs to be a nice in-helmet solution and I haven’t found an (affordable) slimline solution.

    Considering the Nolan system, but haven’t got the money for one yet.

  3. Robert says:

    You mean the excellent CX300? I use those. They produce great sound and are perfect for external noise insulation especially above >=120KMH, even when wearing an S1.
    Up to now I only used these for hifi audio entertainment coming from the Boblebee and connected to iPod, when making long Triple trips.

    Good suggestion, I’ll try connecting them to the Zumo cradle, but are kinda spoiled after Nolan’s nice integrated cordless BT set. 😉 Too bad the N103 was simply too heavy/noisy/bulky…

    You’re right: the aftermarket helmet-mounted BT stuff I’ve come across is rather bulky/ugly not ‘slimline’ at all.

    I’ll post this perfect Zumo ‘slimline’ mount-guide on T-RAT.
    Last but not least: best wishes for 2010 & CU around Amstelveen when visiting EDS/HP?!

  4. rolfje says:

    Yes those are the sennheisers I have. The Sennheiser CX300 in-ears.

    I was looking for a matte black system helmet to go with the Triple’s paint job, with integrated bluetooth. I found one but it was really expensive so I’ll wait. Lost the link.

    What I found amazing is that most bulky bluetooth sets (like the scala) support all kinds of functions (comms, fm radio) but are not A2DP (stereo bluetooth). I kind of expected that for the money.

    If I find a nice solution I’ll blog or tweet about it, no doubt 🙂

  5. Robert says:

    FYI Nolan’s N-Com system is A2DP nowadays and the N103 I had was dark grey / matte black!
    Even though System helmets are very handy, the additional closure sealing creates turbulence resulting in (much) more noise than integrale helmets.
    You might also want to look at Schuberth’s new C3 system helmet with SRC-system which is *for a grand price* A2DP:
    http://www.schuberth.com/en/products/motorrad/src-system.html and it comes in matt black too! ;-p

  6. rolfje says:

    That tech mount seems a nice solution. Too bad that these things are so poorly advertised and so poorly indexed that I could not find it and therefore had to build my own.

    Picture of the techmount with clamp (no partnumber information, I’ll look into that):

  7. rolfje says:

    If you live in the Netherlands, you can order the dampers at http://eriks.nl, or better yet, call them up and see if you can pick them up.

    The minimum quantity is 15 dampers (15x15xM4, Type C) and the total price is about 30 EUR (2 EUR per damper, if you can share with friends).

    At any rate, 30 EUR for the dampers is not bad compared to buying a 67EUR donor mount for just the dampers.

  8. I was looking for a similar solution for my Aprilia Tuono and Zumo 660. I used a RAM ball mount and M8 bolt to replace one of my handlebar clamp ones, combined with the RAM short arm this fitted the Garmin Motorcycle mount supplied with the 660 perfectly and allows me to vary the angle easily. Not as neat as yours but a little more practical.


    I actually bought mine from this guy, but paid double for it!


  9. jason leo says:

    Super nice job. just came across this. for anyone wanting to do similar goto a model airplane store and buy small engine mounts they are threaded both ends and designed to dampen alot of vibration then just cut them to length. im going to make similar but instead of using a plate i will custom the brackets and bolt the rubbers straight on. the ram mount is bulky and not super secure i would have to replace the knob with a screw and drill the head out after as it would get nicked in 5 minutes where i am however i mount it i will put washers on the bolts then i can drill the heads out if i ever need to remove it without hitting the plastic bracket

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